Indian Nationalism

Reporting from Delhi

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Our return to Delhi this morning was uneventful and most of us slept through a significant portion of it (at least I did.)

Another touristy agenda this afternoon. We started out with a rickshaw ride through a market in Old Delhi. Being pulled through the streets by a person may not be the most ridiculous thing we could have done, but it’s up there. There was a minor revolt by a few members of the group that just wanted to walk. Their pragmatism ultimately paid off when we got stuck in a traffic jam and the walking traffic was making better progress. At which point we abandoned our rides and started to walk. Our guide seemed a bit confused at the whole ordeal: why wouldn’t a bunch of tourists want to make a spectacle of themselves? Well, at least I got some fun pictures. (I didn’t get a picture of a cow walking up and peeing on one of the rickshaws, it was priceless, but I was too slow.

Our ride/walk took us to the largest mosque in India. It is a beautiful structure, with a wide courtyard and fountain. Again, some great picture taking opportunities (200rs for a picture-taking permit.) I always find it interesting when we go through “security” at a place like that. There is generally metal detectors, there is generally a guard, but the two don’t necessarily seem to be closely associated. Rather, we walk through the metal detector, it beeps, the guard glances at us from his chair several yards away, we smile, he looks away, we continue: plot averted.

We made two more stops before returning to the hotel: the memorial to Mahatma Ghandi at the site of his cremation and Hanuman’s tomb. Both were excellent although it was surprising how few people were at the Ghandi memorial given that it was a beautiful park, free, and a Sunday.

After getting dressed up at the hotel, we pulled ourselves together for one more event, a Kennedy School alumni meeting. We arrived expecting a cocktail hour and some easy chatting, but were met with a serious lineup of speakers. (I've misplaced my notes, so no names...) Our host was a 1991 grad and introduced 2 national security experts. The conversations were very interesting (and not for attribution), but in general they painted a bleak picture for South Asian regional stability. The first speaker was a fierce Indian Nationalist, which may have its time and place, but when two countries are on the precipice of war probably not the best rhetoric. The second speaker was more measured, outlining weaknesses in the current infrastructure and planned improvements.

I sincerely hope, for the safety of all concerned, that cooler heads prevail.

In front of Hanuman's Tomb

Our bus... in case there was a doubt in anyone's mind

Rickshaw fun!