Showing posts with label Delhi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Delhi. Show all posts

Friday, January 16, 2009

Meetings with Big Wigs

Reporting from Delhi

I'm embarrassed to admit that I missed a bit of the Delhi experience today while working on my final. I spent the morning holed up in my room and then returned afterward to finish it. The upside is that I did get it done in time and that it was pretty good (at least I think so.) All the worlds problems solved in 20 pages, not bad!

That said, the day was amazing even without dumpster diving through the markets. Our first meeting was with no one less than the Indian Minister of Defense Shri (Mr.) A.K. Antony. En route to India's equivalent of the Pentagon, Alicia (another Mid-Career who for the British MOD) and I brought our fellow travelers up to speed on Indian Defense issues. Once there we had a remarkably easy time getting into the meeting, without even having to show ID. We simply wrote down some information and a guide took us to the conference room. No searching, no detectors... Even active duty military has to show 2 forms of ID to get into the Pentagon...

The meeting went well, if a bit tense a times. The Minister didn't give a presentation, but preferred that the conversation be "informal". Of course, most of the questions were polite, if mildly probing. A question of corruption seemed to make the minister slightly uncomfortable, but he addressed it with the cool of a professional politician, saying that it exists, but is not as prevalent as some might think. In a free state the bad is always exaggerated by the press.

On defense issues, we discussed the Pakistan issue a bit and the minister maintained the relatively moderate position that he portrays in the press. He is clearly a critic of the US's role in supporting what he sees as a failing regime, but was hopeful for change with the next administration. He also repeated India's pledge not to be a nuclear aggressor, but didn't get into recent developments in their Nuclear Triad or seeking First Strike capabilities.

For the most part, the conversation focused on India's role in the global security environment. For this, the minister gave an answer that disappointed me personally, but is typical of a country that led the Non-Aligned Movement during the cold war and continues to participate to the detriment of global cooperation: India is not interested in global issues beyond it's own "neighborhood". I'm not going to opine on this here, but if you ever want to get me riled up, please ask me to explain why this is one of the weakest excuses for foreign policy that a supposed up and coming nation can cling to.

(pause, calm down)

Our next meeting was with Mr. Naresh Dayal, the Secretary of the Ministry of Health & Family Welfare. Essentially he holds a position similar to the Undersecretary of the HHS in the US. We had a great conversation with him and his deputies regarding improvements in rural healthcare over the past few years, especially neonatal and infants. India is still behind in meeting the Millennium Development Goals set out by UN, but is making progress. In a few of the states it has exceeded infant and maternal mortality rates, others are lagging behind drastically. They are optimistic, but a number of us were concerned that the recent successes were buoyed by the economic upturn and may not be sustainable as the market goes south. (See the interesting article I mentioned when I first arrived in India.) We had a lot of questions for the Secretary and very little time, so we left unsatiated....

Last meeting was with another Cabinet Minister (hmm... to ministers in one day, whatever...) this time from Commerce. Shri Kamal Nath was one of the primary players in the Doha round of the WTO and its subsequent failure. Naturally, that's what we talked about! He maintained that his primary reason for bringing the negotiations to a standstill was to defend the subsistence farmers of India who do not have a social safety net and cannot survive in a market flooded by subsidized American goods.

Now, I agree that the American trade delegation did not have the best stance on this (read: they were overly self-servicing and protectionist and generally made the same diplomatic mistakes that the Bush administration has been infamous for over the past 8 years.) That said, it is unfair for India to diminish its role in maintaining a distortive global trade regime. As India grows as an economic superpower it will have to make domestic concessions (as will the US), which will ultimately improve every one's quality of life.

I apologize for my going on forever here, but it's difficult to summarize in a few paragraphs meeting with people with such heavy responsibilities. Remember that they have to take care of a population nearly 4 times that of the US with an economy less than one tenth the size and a tax revenue that doesn't even compare. I don't envy their jobs and hope that they continue to make that positive improvements in their people's lives that we've seen over the past decade.

Group with the Minister of Defense. We were joined by another group from HKS that was visiting Delhi.

Meeting with the Minister of Commerce

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Indian Nationalism

Reporting from Delhi


Our return to Delhi this morning was uneventful and most of us slept through a significant portion of it (at least I did.)

Another touristy agenda this afternoon. We started out with a rickshaw ride through a market in Old Delhi. Being pulled through the streets by a person may not be the most ridiculous thing we could have done, but it’s up there. There was a minor revolt by a few members of the group that just wanted to walk. Their pragmatism ultimately paid off when we got stuck in a traffic jam and the walking traffic was making better progress. At which point we abandoned our rides and started to walk. Our guide seemed a bit confused at the whole ordeal: why wouldn’t a bunch of tourists want to make a spectacle of themselves? Well, at least I got some fun pictures. (I didn’t get a picture of a cow walking up and peeing on one of the rickshaws, it was priceless, but I was too slow.

Our ride/walk took us to the largest mosque in India. It is a beautiful structure, with a wide courtyard and fountain. Again, some great picture taking opportunities (200rs for a picture-taking permit.) I always find it interesting when we go through “security” at a place like that. There is generally metal detectors, there is generally a guard, but the two don’t necessarily seem to be closely associated. Rather, we walk through the metal detector, it beeps, the guard glances at us from his chair several yards away, we smile, he looks away, we continue: plot averted.

We made two more stops before returning to the hotel: the memorial to Mahatma Ghandi at the site of his cremation and Hanuman’s tomb. Both were excellent although it was surprising how few people were at the Ghandi memorial given that it was a beautiful park, free, and a Sunday.

After getting dressed up at the hotel, we pulled ourselves together for one more event, a Kennedy School alumni meeting. We arrived expecting a cocktail hour and some easy chatting, but were met with a serious lineup of speakers. (I've misplaced my notes, so no names...) Our host was a 1991 grad and introduced 2 national security experts. The conversations were very interesting (and not for attribution), but in general they painted a bleak picture for South Asian regional stability. The first speaker was a fierce Indian Nationalist, which may have its time and place, but when two countries are on the precipice of war probably not the best rhetoric. The second speaker was more measured, outlining weaknesses in the current infrastructure and planned improvements.

I sincerely hope, for the safety of all concerned, that cooler heads prevail.


In front of Hanuman's Tomb


Our bus... in case there was a doubt in anyone's mind



Rickshaw fun!

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Travel Day (and Shawarma)

Reporting from Delhi

Not a lot going on today - I spent the morning in my room finishing my Economics and Security final (Got it in 2 hours before the deadline!) while most everyone else did a short tour of Bangalore. Apparently I didn't miss much, which is what I expected based on the travel guides. Our flight to Delhi was uneventful, but I would like to note that the Indian airlines still serve food in their economy class and have great service despite cheap tickets. Take that United!

Once settled in Delhi, we decided to celebrate our halfway point by throwing caution to the wind and eating at what was basically a street vendor. The food was amazing and the staff found our presence quite amusing, it seems that few foreigners have the guts (literally and figuratively) to eat there. We raised a few eyebrows by ordering too much, but we did our damnedest to eat it all. We were almost successful... I had a pile of bones on my plate testifying to the carnage. (unfortunately I didn't have my camera so I'll have to wait for the picture swap to review.)

Tomorrow, it's an early morning drive to Agra where we'll see the Taj Mahal, to knock another Wonder off my list!