Sunday, January 18, 2009

Buy, Buy, No Buy, Goodbye

Reporting from Jaipur

Our last full day in India. We didn’t have much of an itinerary, so today was meant to be pretty relaxing, mostly just finish up shopping. Waking up to say goodbye to Anjali, our trip organizer extraordinaire, we splintered off into small tuk-tuk sized groups to find some more Rajastani treasures.

We found Gopal Singh.

Gopal was a friendly, older, tuk-tuk driver that offered to take us around the city for a princely sum of 50rs per person for 1 hour. We managed to talk him down to 150 for 2 hours (roughly 3 dollars). He then took us to all his favorite (probably commissioned) places. It was pretty enjoyable for the most part and while I wouldn’t recommend cramming five Americans (well, one of us was German) into a tuk-tuk, we made it work. We spent a good amount of time at a fabric place that had markedly improved quality of products compared to yesterday’s market. While there Gopal explained his shopping philosophy “buy, buy, no buy, good-bye.” Sounded good to us!

His next recommendations were busts… a junky restaurant and an overpriced jewelry store. We declared victory and returned to the hotel. When Gopal dropped us off, he seemed a bit miffed that we only paid him double the negotiated fare, despite the pretty significant commission he likely earned from the fabric store and restaurant. Oh well.

Not interested in dealing with crazy cab drivers, we decided to have our final dinner at the hotel’s rooftop. It was a great dinner: we reflected on the trip’s highlights and applauded ourselves for being so great (like a small, slightly less glamorous version of the Oscars.) I’ll talk about that more later.

Tomorrow – the long trek back to the States!


Inspecting the merchandise


Sareena and Sam at dinner

Tourists on Elephants

Reporting from Jaipur

We got to sleep in ‘till 8 this morning! Yes, I do like my sleep. This would be a full day of tours, nothing to redeem the day academically or intellectually. I’m fine with that though.
First up, elephants.

We visited the Amber Fort, an incredible medieval palace not far from Jaipur city on a hill. The traditional way for tourists to get up the hill is on the back of elephants. Of course, what other way would one climb a hill while in India? We fit in well with the other tourists, some of whom were sporting the turbans they’d purchased from the touts in the line. I suppose there was an alternate route, but why would we pass on the elephants? Other than the last minute fleecing by the elephant “driver”, it was everything we wanted (needed?) it to be.

The fort was a spectacular setting with several palaces and a warren-like harem in the back. We spent most of the time getting lost and finding secret rooms. Apparently, the way down from the fort is by jeep…

Next, we visited the City Palace, which was built by one of the maharajas from the Amber fort. Not a whole lot there other than the largest (as registered in the Guinness Book) silver urn.
We ditched the guide after he wanted to take us to the government jewelry store (for a sizeable commission.) All that was left was shop and haggle until we were exhausted, which didn’t take too long. The market we were shopping had a ton of shops and touts, but was light on quality goods. A perfect place to hone our bargaining skills. After about two hours of “that’s not possible my friend”, “for my first customer, a special price”, near walk outs, and treasures acquired, we took our bags home.

That evening we went to dinner at rooftop Mediterranean place that had a huge square table capable of accommodating all twelve of us. The food was good and the staff friendly, but the best part was the beer served in teapots! There’s nothing quite like drinking your beer out of a coffee mug after pouring it from a teapot…

Excited to be on the prettiest elephant in Jaipur

Excited to be alive


Girls in the Harem windows...


I found Waldo! No, wait... that's me...

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Cultural Show

Reporting from Jaipur

Another early morning (sorry for the broken record on this…), I managed to get my act together and pour myself onto the bus. The trip from Delhi to Jaipur lasted about six hours. When we finally arrived, I promptly crashed in my hotel room.

I finally felt like a real person again around dinner, which was a good thing because the agenda for the evening was not to be missed. The tour guide set us up at a garden restaurant with a dance show! It was amazing slash terrible. I hadn’t attended the last cultural event so I was excited to see what the Rajastanis had in store for us. There were pots, knives, dancing horses, and crazy Norwegians (one of whom decided that he should share his culture with the crowd.) What more could one ask for?

Dancing, Trumpeting, Fire... What more could you ask for?

We argued whether that was a horse or a donkey... I also have a picture of one of my friends wearing it and dancing on stage, but I'm going to spare him the embarrassment of posting it (I'm not above bribery here.)

Friday, January 16, 2009

Sick

Reporting from Delhi

This posting will be much much shorter than yesterday's...

I was very sick. All day. I didn't leave the room until dinner and then didn't stay out long. I missed a couple of meetings.

Lot's of fun.

Meetings with Big Wigs

Reporting from Delhi

I'm embarrassed to admit that I missed a bit of the Delhi experience today while working on my final. I spent the morning holed up in my room and then returned afterward to finish it. The upside is that I did get it done in time and that it was pretty good (at least I think so.) All the worlds problems solved in 20 pages, not bad!

That said, the day was amazing even without dumpster diving through the markets. Our first meeting was with no one less than the Indian Minister of Defense Shri (Mr.) A.K. Antony. En route to India's equivalent of the Pentagon, Alicia (another Mid-Career who for the British MOD) and I brought our fellow travelers up to speed on Indian Defense issues. Once there we had a remarkably easy time getting into the meeting, without even having to show ID. We simply wrote down some information and a guide took us to the conference room. No searching, no detectors... Even active duty military has to show 2 forms of ID to get into the Pentagon...

The meeting went well, if a bit tense a times. The Minister didn't give a presentation, but preferred that the conversation be "informal". Of course, most of the questions were polite, if mildly probing. A question of corruption seemed to make the minister slightly uncomfortable, but he addressed it with the cool of a professional politician, saying that it exists, but is not as prevalent as some might think. In a free state the bad is always exaggerated by the press.

On defense issues, we discussed the Pakistan issue a bit and the minister maintained the relatively moderate position that he portrays in the press. He is clearly a critic of the US's role in supporting what he sees as a failing regime, but was hopeful for change with the next administration. He also repeated India's pledge not to be a nuclear aggressor, but didn't get into recent developments in their Nuclear Triad or seeking First Strike capabilities.

For the most part, the conversation focused on India's role in the global security environment. For this, the minister gave an answer that disappointed me personally, but is typical of a country that led the Non-Aligned Movement during the cold war and continues to participate to the detriment of global cooperation: India is not interested in global issues beyond it's own "neighborhood". I'm not going to opine on this here, but if you ever want to get me riled up, please ask me to explain why this is one of the weakest excuses for foreign policy that a supposed up and coming nation can cling to.

(pause, calm down)

Our next meeting was with Mr. Naresh Dayal, the Secretary of the Ministry of Health & Family Welfare. Essentially he holds a position similar to the Undersecretary of the HHS in the US. We had a great conversation with him and his deputies regarding improvements in rural healthcare over the past few years, especially neonatal and infants. India is still behind in meeting the Millennium Development Goals set out by UN, but is making progress. In a few of the states it has exceeded infant and maternal mortality rates, others are lagging behind drastically. They are optimistic, but a number of us were concerned that the recent successes were buoyed by the economic upturn and may not be sustainable as the market goes south. (See the interesting article I mentioned when I first arrived in India.) We had a lot of questions for the Secretary and very little time, so we left unsatiated....

Last meeting was with another Cabinet Minister (hmm... to ministers in one day, whatever...) this time from Commerce. Shri Kamal Nath was one of the primary players in the Doha round of the WTO and its subsequent failure. Naturally, that's what we talked about! He maintained that his primary reason for bringing the negotiations to a standstill was to defend the subsistence farmers of India who do not have a social safety net and cannot survive in a market flooded by subsidized American goods.

Now, I agree that the American trade delegation did not have the best stance on this (read: they were overly self-servicing and protectionist and generally made the same diplomatic mistakes that the Bush administration has been infamous for over the past 8 years.) That said, it is unfair for India to diminish its role in maintaining a distortive global trade regime. As India grows as an economic superpower it will have to make domestic concessions (as will the US), which will ultimately improve every one's quality of life.

I apologize for my going on forever here, but it's difficult to summarize in a few paragraphs meeting with people with such heavy responsibilities. Remember that they have to take care of a population nearly 4 times that of the US with an economy less than one tenth the size and a tax revenue that doesn't even compare. I don't envy their jobs and hope that they continue to make that positive improvements in their people's lives that we've seen over the past decade.

Group with the Minister of Defense. We were joined by another group from HKS that was visiting Delhi.

Meeting with the Minister of Commerce

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Indian Nationalism

Reporting from Delhi


Our return to Delhi this morning was uneventful and most of us slept through a significant portion of it (at least I did.)

Another touristy agenda this afternoon. We started out with a rickshaw ride through a market in Old Delhi. Being pulled through the streets by a person may not be the most ridiculous thing we could have done, but it’s up there. There was a minor revolt by a few members of the group that just wanted to walk. Their pragmatism ultimately paid off when we got stuck in a traffic jam and the walking traffic was making better progress. At which point we abandoned our rides and started to walk. Our guide seemed a bit confused at the whole ordeal: why wouldn’t a bunch of tourists want to make a spectacle of themselves? Well, at least I got some fun pictures. (I didn’t get a picture of a cow walking up and peeing on one of the rickshaws, it was priceless, but I was too slow.

Our ride/walk took us to the largest mosque in India. It is a beautiful structure, with a wide courtyard and fountain. Again, some great picture taking opportunities (200rs for a picture-taking permit.) I always find it interesting when we go through “security” at a place like that. There is generally metal detectors, there is generally a guard, but the two don’t necessarily seem to be closely associated. Rather, we walk through the metal detector, it beeps, the guard glances at us from his chair several yards away, we smile, he looks away, we continue: plot averted.

We made two more stops before returning to the hotel: the memorial to Mahatma Ghandi at the site of his cremation and Hanuman’s tomb. Both were excellent although it was surprising how few people were at the Ghandi memorial given that it was a beautiful park, free, and a Sunday.

After getting dressed up at the hotel, we pulled ourselves together for one more event, a Kennedy School alumni meeting. We arrived expecting a cocktail hour and some easy chatting, but were met with a serious lineup of speakers. (I've misplaced my notes, so no names...) Our host was a 1991 grad and introduced 2 national security experts. The conversations were very interesting (and not for attribution), but in general they painted a bleak picture for South Asian regional stability. The first speaker was a fierce Indian Nationalist, which may have its time and place, but when two countries are on the precipice of war probably not the best rhetoric. The second speaker was more measured, outlining weaknesses in the current infrastructure and planned improvements.

I sincerely hope, for the safety of all concerned, that cooler heads prevail.


In front of Hanuman's Tomb


Our bus... in case there was a doubt in anyone's mind



Rickshaw fun!

Another wonder of the world

OK, back to blogging…

Reporting from Agra


Another early morning today as we headed out on our five-hour bus ride to the ancient Mogul capital of Agra. Fortunately, we decided to stay the night there, instead of making it a day trip. Regardless, we’ve been racking up our bus time… The bus ride gave us another opportunity to shop at an opportunistic tourist shop along the highway, so that’s good.

A note about driving in India. First, there are no freeways and the traffic along the highways generally crawls along at about 70kph. You do get to see a number of exciting sights though: monkeys, elephants, camels, herds of sheep, temples, etc. Commercial vehicles are generally only licensed to operate in one state, so at every border we had to stop to purchase a license allowing the bus to continue. I would have guessed that this would impede interstate commerce, but it doesn’t seem to be too significant. Almost all the trucks have “Blow Horn” or the like written on their tailgates and the other motorists comply gladly.

How was the Taj Mahal?
-Spectacular

Did you take lots of pictures?
-Yes
(Pictures are worth a thousand words)


Obligatory Taj solo picture


Apparently, the Taj makes people jump for joy! (Sorry Carlyn...)

I think we were meant to look tough in this picture